Muted Metallic Finish is a finish that gives a non-directional, wispy basecoat makes a beautiful effect even though it is totally fauxed over with glaze. Some benefits to this particular finish are that it doesn't require a wet edge, nor does it need any special tools or product line. There are, however, some keys to this easy technique that will ensure the best results, so be sure and check the "hints: sidebar before starting.

Materials required:

Spray bottle for a fine mist

Three-inch paper tape (for corner)

 Two-inch masking tape (for trim)

1 pint propylene glycol or extender

Two large Golden's satin glaze (or any brand water-based glaze)

1 quart Golden's sati glaze (or any brand water-based glaze)

Apron with pockets

One squeeze bottle

One quart latex black semi-gloss paint

Basecoat any sheen (we used Duron #8683w)

1 pint Golden's brand Silver metallic (or any brand)

1 pint Golden's brand Gold metallic (or any brand)

Topcoat mixture:

Step 1

Tape off all trim. Apply one coat of a taupe colored paint, any sheen. After it dries, apply two coats of metallic paint rolled on with a nap roller. Let it day between coats. Don't worry about roller marks, they won't show through the faux finish. I make my own "pewter" glaze color by combining one part gold and one part silver equally. You work only one wall at a time using 3-inch tape to protect the adjacent walls.

Step 2

Muted metallic is a tow handed finish, That's why an apron is needed to hold your squeeze bottle of the topcoat. Both sponges must be

moistened thoroughly, and then wrung out. As with most finishes, use the flat side of the sponge, not the prickly side. Squeeze the topcoat onto a sponge, and then dab onto the wall. Being right-handed, I apply the topcoat with my left (weak) hand, How you dab on the topcoat is irrelevant. Then, with my right (strong) hand, I soften (pressing through the glaze and

swish) the color until all the dabbed topcoat is completely worked. (photo # 1). Work you way diagonally across the segment. Now, here's the important hint: leave the edge uneven (as in Photo #2) and work in diagonal segments (see diagram). You'll be able to work about one, on-by-two foot area

at a time. This finish goes quickly, and there's no need to maintain a wet edge.

Step 3

To create a new segment, apply some new topcoat with the weak hand, two to four inches away from the previously softened edge. (Photo #2) It can be dry. Then pat with your strong hand into the wet topcoat and soften to the previous edge without heavily overlapping. (If there is a slight overlap, it will appear as a drift and still look attractive.) Then finish softening with your strong hand, until a new segment is created. This is a sheer finish with no heavy overlap lines.

Step 4

Work you way across the wall (again, see diagram). Corners are easy Tape off with the three inch paper, dab and soften the topcoat right into the corner. Do opposite walls, and then do opposite walls again. AC, BD. The great thing about this finish is that you can start

and stop anywhere, as long as the area is softened and left in a diagonal segment before you quit.

For more information, contact Donna at 888/92-DONNA. or visit her website at www.learnfaux.com